‘We’ve made it safe and sound
this time,’ I expressed with joy to my
friend on the last day of our expedition while we stopped by in a local hotel
at Soti. From here, one could easily
get a local bus around to return back to the city. Those of you who have little
idea of what I’m talking about, please grab a coffee first and allow me to
explain my position. We have recently completed our 21 days (March 1-21) ‘SAVE
MANASLU’S FROGS! Research Expedition’ trip to Manaslu Conservation Area, Gorkha
district, the northwestern part of Nepal. This expedition was a part of the
amphibian research and conservation work I’ve been carrying out in Manaslu
since early 2016, ‘Saving Mountain Frogs (Paha) Before It’s Too Late;
Conservation Effort at Manaslu Conservation Area, Gorkha District, Nepal’ (http://www.rufford.org/projects/biraj_shrestha).
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Taking-measurements-of-an-unidentified-tadpole-at-Yuwang-River |
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Stream frog (paha) habitat in Manaslu |
I
worked in the remote landscape of Manaslu in April-May 2016 for over a month
doing the amphibian survey, celebrated 8th Annual Save The Frogs Day
with the local community and did school awareness programs. Then, I revisited
Manaslu in September 2016 for a follow-up visit but as we reached Tatopani at 8:30 in the morning, a great
tragedy struck in the form of the landslide. We escaped death by an inch but
unluckily a group of Spanish trekkers who were just ahead of us met the
terrible accident. Four people died at the spot and multiple injured
individuals were flown to hospital via chopper. Well, Manaslu is one of the
most dangerous remote montane amphibian habitats in Nepal. The only trekking
trail runs through the deep gorge with a raging torrent of Budhi Gandaki River below
fed by the melt of the world’s eighth highest peak, Mt Manaslu (8,163 m asl).
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Budhi Gandaki River flowing swiftly |
The disastrous earthquake of 2015 whose epicenter Barpak (south of Manaslu), has made the mountains unstable. After the landslide during our second field visit, I was so traumatized and spent days agonizing whether I
should resume my incomplete tasks or not. But call it sheer stupidity or the
love of frogs! We geared up, boosted morale, and set out to achieve the mission
of frog conservation in the Himalaya. This recent expedition, which happened to
be my third quest, was able through precious donations that came to SAVE THE
FROGS! from frog lovers all around the world. Thank you once again for that!
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A narrow eroded trail at Tatopani |
Our
journey began from Hetauda, we took a local bus to Gorkha and collected research permit from
Manaslu Conservation Area Project (MCAP) office in the city. I met the newly
appointed project coordinator of MCAP and briefed him about our project in Manaslu. On the next day, we took another four hours bus ride to Arughat, NE from Gorkha and from there
another two and half hours bus ride until we reached Soti. This is the point where the motorable road ends, and then you're all on your muscle power. We stayed overnight at Soti,
saw a bunch of tourists (trekkers) with their guides, mules grazing around and raging
Budhi Gandaki River nearby, which was the ambiance of Manaslu calling, I know!
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The mule train |
Early
morning the following day, we started trekking and let me tell you it’s a
very strenuous every day 8-10 hours walk. We
tramped through the narrow rugged trail at the banks of Budhi Gandaki to
enter Jagat (entrance of MCA) from Soti (579
masl) to Liding, Lapu besi (775 masl), Machikhola (918 masl), and Tatopani (956 masl). I had
the jitters while crossing the Tatopani trail where we witnessed the landslide in September 2016. Also, there are plenty of landslides or rockfall areas in the Manaslu circuit after the earthquake.
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Landslide signpost installed by MCAP |
After
Tatopani, we crossed Dovan, Syaulifedi, Thadodhunga, Yarubagar,
and reached Jagat (1,351 masl). Since we led our
expedition at the start of spring, we hoped for pleasant weather in the
mountains, but you never can tell. It rained cats and dogs from the day we entered Manaslu while the northern reaches snowed continuously until our final day of depart. The temperature was down throughout our
expedition with frequent storms and strong winds. Crikey, it was only the
pre-monsoon season?
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Snowy mountain tops |
That
unpredictable weather hugely affected our amphibian survey. We walked a
transect of 45.6 km from Jagat to Lokpa, Dyang, and Prok village doing Visual Encounter Surveys (VES), did stream
surveys, and 10x10 sq. meters quadrat surveys. We didn’t see any frog/toad this time nevertheless, we found egg masses and tadpoles.
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Local boys helping stream frog’s survey |
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Trying to shoot paha egg mass in clumps |
We
saw clumps of stream frog (paha) eggs clinging underneath of
rock in small streams, while the toad eggs (Duttaphrynus sp.) were found in a different fashion.
Toads laid their eggs in a long chain of the jelly coated membrane and found
floating in stagnant water. The tadpoles are unidentified but easily observed at bottoms of mountain brooks. We did quadrat study in
forests and agricultural lands but no success. Locals said the unfavorable weather and coldness could have restricted amphibian's sighting.
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Paha egg mass in clumps
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Developed paha tadpoles inside the jelly coated egg mass |
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Toad eggs in a long chain |
We
conducted other activities like Amphibian Conservation Dissemination Workshop, frog
conservation posters distribution, the formation of Amphibian Conservation Group
(ACG), and ethnoherpetological study along with the survey. We held the Amphibian Conservation
Dissemination Workshop in Philim (1,431
masl) of Sirdibas VDC, Lokpa (1,910 masl) of Chumchet VDC, Dyang (1,914 masl) of Bihi
VDC and Prok village (2,436 masl).
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Amphibian Conservation Dissemination Workshop at Philim, Sirdibas
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MCAP Office at Philim with Amphibian Conservation Group
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Amphibian Conservation Dissemination Workshop at Lokpa, Chumchet |
The
workshops saw participation from all segments of the community members; youths, students, teachers, local and religious leaders,
villagers, MCAP staff, Mother’s Group, and Conservation Area Management
Committee (CAMC).
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Local kid displaying paha conservation poster |
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Amphibian Conservation Group at Pemathang monastery, Lokpa |
We sensed local people care about paha frogs in their region but saddened by the fact that amphibians around the world are facing unprecedented declines and Nepal could be no exception. People were motivated to check paha (stream frogs) collection in their villages
and expressed determination to take collective actions against those found guilty. In
coordination with the local community and MCAP, we supported the formation of
Amphibian Conservation Groups in Sirdibas,
Chumchet, Bihi, and Prok VDCs.
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Tourists being a part of our workshop in Dyang, Bihi |
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Amphibian Conservation Dissemination Workshop at Prok VDC |
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Locals discussing about paha |
On
March 21, we returned to Gorkha city, where I gave ‘Amphibian Conservation Talk’
at Choice FM, 90.4 MH, highlighting our conservation effort at Manaslu.
URL:
http://ujyaaloonline.com/news/72670/paha/
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Choice FM 94.0 MHz studio |
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Snow crest at Prok |
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Manaslu panorama |
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Meet the himalayan people |
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Farmlands of Prok |